Sunday 08/11/26

Welcome to the first Sunday edition of Polonyed! We spent a long time wondering whether a weekly newsletter was the right next step. But if we can bring you more value, share more of Poland with the world, and help you understand what life here is really like, then we believe it is worth doing.

A little about us. Polonyed is an independent media project dedicated to sharing Poland with the world in English. We are two people who love this country and enjoy meeting everyone who wants to discover it from the inside, whether through our social media posts or this new weekly newsletter. We hope you enjoy reading, discovering, and getting to know Poland with us. In today's edition, let's take a look at what happened in Poland this week:

TRADITION: Christmas markets across Poland are about to begin
TRAVEL: Poland's royal residences open their doors for free
CULTURE: Toruń becomes the world capital of cinematography
OPINION: What's really happening in Poland's constitutional crisis?

Christmas markets are back in Poland, and I look forward to them every year. I love getting a cup of grzaniec, walking around the stalls, trying some local food and spending time with friends. It is a simple tradition, but one that makes the whole Christmas season better.

Polish Christmas markets have become a big part of the winter season. After the Second World War, many Polish cities had to rebuild their historic centres and public squares. Today, these places fill with people again every winter. Families come to enjoy the lights, buy Christmas decorations, eat something warm and spend time together. Over the years, the markets have become a tradition that many Poles genuinely look forward to.

If you are planning to visit Poland this winter, I recommend checking out the markets in Wrocław, Gdańsk and Kraków. Wrocław has a large market spread across its historic centre, Gdańsk offers beautiful streets and festive stalls, and Kraków combines Christmas shopping with its famous Main Market Square and traditional nativity scenes.

Most markets start opening in November, so you can already plan your trip. My recommendation is to visit in the evening, when the lights are on, get yourself a cup of grzaniec and try some Polish Christmas food. It is one of the easiest ways to enjoy the country during winter.

I have a good recommendation for you. Four of the country's royal residences are offering free admission this month, so you can explore some of Poland's most important historical sites without spending a penny on tickets.

The initiative is called Darmowy Listopad (Free November), and it has been running for 15 years. From 2 to 30 November, visitors can explore selected exhibitions and historic interiors at the Royal Castle in Warsaw, Wawel Castle in Kraków, the Royal Łazienki Museum and the Palace of King Jan III Sobieski in Wilanów. Each residence also has its own programme of workshops, guided tours and other events.

Personally, I think this is a great opportunity to see a different side of Poland. You can walk through royal apartments, admire centuries-old architecture and learn about the people who shaped the country's history. If you are interested in Polish culture, these places are well worth your time.

My recommendation is to start with Wawel if you are visiting Kraków, or the Royal Castle and Łazienki if you are in Warsaw. And if you have a little more time, Wilanów is another beautiful place to explore.

Just remember that free admission applies to selected exhibitions and spaces, and some locations require a free ticket in advance or at the ticket office. Check the official websites before you go.

Every November, Toruń welcomes some of the biggest names in cinematography. This year, the 34th edition of Camerimage runs from 7 to 14 November, bringing filmmakers and cinema lovers from around the world to the city.

The festival is dedicated to the art of cinematography, the craft behind the look and feel of a film. The programme includes more than 200 screenings, workshops and meetings. Among this year's guests are directors Darren Aronofsky and Luca Guadagnino, as well as Polish cinematographer Janusz Kamiński, a two-time Academy Award winner.

For me, one of the best things about Camerimage is that it gives attention to the people who work behind the camera. A great film depends on much more than its actors, and this festival is a chance to appreciate the people who make cinema look the way it does.

And if you have never visited Toruń, this is a good excuse. The city is famous for its medieval Old Town, beautiful brick architecture and gingerbread, which has been made here for centuries. You can spend the day exploring its historic streets and the evening watching films from around the world.

If you are in Poland this November, I recommend checking the festival programme and seeing whether there is a screening that interests you. Even outside the festival, Toruń is well worth a visit.

Poland has been arguing over its Constitutional Tribunal for more than a decade, but the conflict has reached a new level. The Tribunal is the country's highest court for deciding whether laws comply with the Constitution. Right now, the government, the president and the court itself disagree over who has the authority to appoint judges and run the institution.

The roots go back to 2015, when the Law and Justice (PiS) government appointed judges to seats that had already been lawfully filled. This damaged the Tribunal's independence and led to years of legal disputes. Since returning to power in 2023, Donald Tusk's government has tried to restore the rule of law, but its reforms have also been challenged by the opposition and President Karol Nawrocki.

The latest escalation came on 30 October. Nawrocki refused to accept the oaths of several judges elected by parliament, while Judge Anna Korwin-Piotrowska suspended the Tribunal's president and vice-president for one month and took over its leadership. Both sides say the other is acting unlawfully. The dispute has even led to confrontations inside the court building.

So why should people care? The Tribunal decides whether laws are constitutional. When its legitimacy is disputed, it becomes harder to know which rulings are valid and whether the country's institutions can function properly.

For now, there is no simple solution. Poland needs a way to restore the Tribunal's independence and public trust without turning the court into another battlefield between political parties.